Christopher Kane Returns to London Fashion Week at Mulberry

London Fashion Week's Spring/Summer 2027 schedule concluded in September, packed with shows, presentations, and exhibitions. The season was marked by designer debuts, brand homecomings, and unique runway concepts across the city.

Selasi's Automotive Sanctuary

Designer Ronan McKenzie staged her Selasi show at the M&A Coachworks vehicle repair specialist in Tuffnell Park. According to show notes, McKenzie looked to the automobile "not simply as a machine, but as a space of possibility." The collection featured plunging jersey and tactile suede, aiming to harmonize the curving lines of cars with the female form. A cast of friends and family contributed to what Dazed described as "one of the sweetest moments" of the week.

Notable Debuts and Returns

Francesca Lake presented her debut catwalk show, titled 'Wake The Town,' in the NEWGEN space at 180 the Strand. The Central Saint Martins graduate from Jamaica showed a collection inspired by processions and wakes, featuring pieces like a pearl-encrusted bodice and imposing collars mixed with leather and denim.

Ashley Williams returned to the Institute of Contemporary Arts with a collection centered on agoraphobia and interior life. Show notes asked, what life looks like when interiority is all that remains. The runway featured 1970s-inspired prints, sun-bleached fleece, and accessories including hosiery stuffed with plush toys.

Design duo Matt Empringham and Freddy Coomes presented their first show under the new name A Letter at the Rosewood Easton Gallery. They employed a minimalist concept, using only five models who each walked six times in square-necked mini dresses and easy-to-pull-on materials.

Artistic Presentations and Heritage

Steve O Smith hosted an intimate salon-style presentation in the Royal College of Art's life drawing room for about 30 guests. With no music, Smith verbally guided the audience through looks inspired by quick ink sketches and artists like André Derain and Matisse, using only red, cobalt, Prussian blue, and black shades.

Priya Ahluwalia showed her collection at the Rosewood London hotel, drawing inspiration from the 1977 Festac cultural celebration in Lagos. The designer, known for exploring her Indian-Nigerian heritage, also debuted a new collaboration with Puma.

British Brand Homecomings

Several heritage British brands marked returns or celebrations. Barbour hosted a tartan exhibition at the Saatchi Gallery in partnership with the British Fashion Council. The most anticipated return was Christopher Kane's first London Fashion Week show in three years, now as creative director of Mulberry. The Scottish designer had closed his namesake label in 2023, and his Mulberry debut was held inside a parliamentary building.