Rei Kawakubo on AI, black, and advice

Rei Kawakubo presented her Comme des Garçons Autumn/Winter 2026 collection, titled 'Ultimately Black', in a rare interview with Dazed magazine's autumn 2026 issue. The collection, which featured 20 black looks punctuated by six in bright pink, was described as a funereal take on Victorian mourning dress, utilizing corsets, crinolines, lace, tulle, velvet, and silk.

Kawakubo explained the collection's central theme. "This collection was born from the realisation that once again, when all is said and done, black is an essential colour for my artistic expression," she said. The designer stated that black represents "the colour of resistance, of justice and of independence." Regarding the vivid pink pieces interspersed throughout the show, Kawakubo said they held no particular meaning related to femininity, but existed "solely to enhance or reinforce the black, like a spice."

The Kawakubo Method

The article recounts anecdotes illustrating Kawakubo's renowned, taciturn approach. Former Guardian fashion editor Susannah Frankel recalled asking Kawakubo what she was thinking about when designing a collection during a visit to the Place Vendôme showroom. In response, Kawakubo reportedly drew a circle on a piece of paper and walked away, an answer Frankel called "perfect." Stylist and designer Judy Blame remembered receiving a commission for Comme des Garçons' Spring/Summer 2005 collection, for which Kawakubo's only instruction was that the jewelry be "pink and gold."

Perspective on AI and Emotion

When asked about the role of artificial intelligence in creativity, Kawakubo offered a succinct critique. "If there are 100 people, all 100 will be different," she said. "In the case of AI, all 100 would more than likely give almost the same answer." The show itself was noted for its emotional impact, bringing one seasoned fashion editor to tears. Kawakubo, however, said evoking emotion is not a specific purpose. "I seek something new, but what the result brings about is something I do not know," she explained.

Advice and Fashion's Role

Kawakubo was asked what advice she would give to young designers just starting out. Her counsel was brief: "To the younger generation: just keep going, keep going." When questioned about fashion's role in responding to dark or hopeless times, she expressed a positive view. "I believe the role of fashion is that, by expressing oneself through what one wears, one's spirits are lifted, in other words, it has a positive effect," Kawakubo stated. The designer also clarified that the relationship between clothing and the body is not a primary theme for her work. The full interview appears in the autumn 2026 issue of Dazed, which goes on sale internationally from September 10.