Liza Keane's Dark SS27 Debut at London Fashion Week
Designer Liza Keane presented her apocalyptic 'Rain On My Parade' collection for SS27 at London Fashion Week, featuring a dramatic water-soaked runway.
Liza Keane staged her SS27 London Fashion Week debut with a dark, waterlogged spectacle at 180 The Strand on September 22, 2026. The show, titled 'Rain On My Parade', featured models splashing through mud and water in a post-apocalyptic narrative.
Front-row attendees were warned they were in the 'splash zone' as an installation by radical studio playbody dominated the runway. A structure of scaffolding poles and concrete breezeblocks held a panel that was drenched by an overhead hose, creating a downpour reminiscent of Alexander McQueen's iconic shows. Silver-painted performers hoisted the panel while models in waxed leather, trailing cloaks, and shredded fabrics walked through the deluge.
The Post-Apocalyptic Vision
The collection imagined the aftermath of an undisclosed disaster. Keane's show notes described survivors emptied of hope, their skin hardened into hide. Leather in the collection was designed to appear 'keratinised into the body rather than worn against it', perforated and gashed. Looks included models with bows and arrows, one carrying a blonde-haired baby, and an opening outfit featuring distressed angel wings dragging through muddy water.
Since graduating from Central Saint Martins in 2022, Keane has built a signature aesthetic around dark, decaying worlds that transmute inner states into clothing. This show was the latest iteration of that vision.
A Week of Chaos Before the Show
In the week leading up to the debut, Dazed followed Keane through a diary of frantic preparations. The schedule was packed with last-minute alterations, casting sessions, and sleep-deprived nights.
The designer's diary entries detailed the intense process:
| Day | Key Activities and Challenges |
|---|---|
| Monday, Sept 14 | Back-to-back meetings, pattern-cutting trousers, reviewing show music with ADHD focus demands. |
| Tuesday, Sept 15 | Bike commutes for calls, a fitting, bleaching pants, and the arrival of a much-awaited 'baby' garment. |
| Wednesday, Sept 16 | Fabric dyeing with an intern, a light test with her dog Uma, and a late-night fitting ending at 2am. |
| Thursday, Sept 17 | A hectic day described as 'the chaos before the storm', leaving Keane exhausted with garments still to cut. |
| Friday, Sept 18 | The final deadline to finish all samples, noted simply as a hard day. |
| Saturday, Sept 19 | Casting began with praise for her 'wizard' casting director Yuri and a tight studio team. |
| Sunday, Sept 20 | No sleep, with ongoing casting and garment finishing. Her dog joined model walk-throughs, and she stayed up all night for final alterations. |
| Monday, Sept 21 | Nearly fell asleep sewing, faced transport drama with an initially reluctant Uber driver, and arrived an hour late to the venue before the final whirlwind setup. |
Keane credited her sister Lilia and assistants Gabriel and Liv for their support through the last-minute dramas. She described the final day as passing in a blink, ending with feelings of happiness and gratitude.
The show's ominous score was provided by DJ Hezen, complementing the dimly lit, industrial venue. Despite the pre-show chaos, Keane's debut cemented her status as a rising designer within London's Newgen program, presenting a fully realized and unsettling world.
